My first week in Ghana has been
like a roller coaster. First and foremost, I must say that in all my travels,
this is the first time that I feel I truly am experiencing culture shock. From
the food, to the way of life, to the weather, to the people, everything has
been a learning experience and a shift in perspective.
After a 10.5 hour flight from JFK
to Accra, I finally arrived at 1:30pm GMT. When I deciphered my way through the
airport, I found the other people who were also part of ProWorld. Together, we
embarked on a 4.5 hour non-stop journey via tro-tro, a small bus, to Cape
Coast.
Ghana is very green and vibrant.
The terrain is not mountainous; some hills here and there, but not much. The roads are ample and paved, and there is a
lot of unfinished (perhaps abandoned) construction. Women (mostly) carry just
about anything (suitcases, food, large bins of bottled water/yogurt, etc.)
balanced on their head without using their hands.
A few of the most shocking things:
1)
The weather—the weather is HOT! It is the rainy
season here, and it’s supposed to be ‘cooler’, but it is basically a hot summer
in Florida, with 80% or more humidity, and no air conditioning. For those of
you who know me well, you know I don’t complaint much about warm weather, but I
am not lying when I say that the second I step away from a fan, I begin to
sweat. Nonetheless, people here don’t complain about it. You will see men
dressed in suits not shedding a single drop of sweat.
2)
No stray dogs, just goats—there are a few stray
dogs here and there, but far more goats roam the streets. When I inquired about
this, one person said that the goats know where they live, so they are let
loose during the day and at night they return to their homes. You will see a
pack of three or four goats together in the middle of the streets, in the
markets… EVERYWHERE!
3)
Waking up at 4am!! This one goes to all of you
who call me “grandma” or “abuelita” because I go to sleep early and wake up
early! May I say that waking up at 7:30am or even 6:30am is late for the people
here! The sun begins rising at 4am, and by 5am you will begin to hear people
working, cleaning, and shouting in the streets. I am the lazy one! The market
opens way before 8am.
4)
Taxi culture. Taxi is the most common way to get
around in Ghana. Taxis are marked by
yellow panels on the back and front of the cars, so it doesn’t seem like there
are many taxis on the road because they are not completely yellow, but there
are! There are two types of taxis: drop and shared. A drop taxi is what you
would consider a taxi in the West; it takes you from wherever you are to
wherever you want. A shared taxi is one that runs on a route (like a bus would)
and picks up/drops off people along the way. So, you share a taxi with whoever
is picked up along the way, and drop you off wherever as long as it’s on the
route. A drop taxi is more expensive than a shared one. Before you get into a
taxi, you must ask the driver whether you want a drop or shared taxi, inform
them of your destination, and bargain a price. The first time I tried to get a
shared taxi by myself, the guy tried charging me 13 cedis ($6.50 USD) for a
ride that would normally be 1.30 cedis ($0.65 USD) because they saw I was a
foreigner! Needless to say, I refused to get in the taxi.
My homestay family has been incredibly nice, patient and
caring. I live in a historic house in the town of Elmina, about 20 minutes from
Cape Coast. The house was built more than two hundred years ago. My family
members: Mama Teiko, Sister Francisca, and Brother Robert. The neighbors are
close friends of the family, so they are always here. There are children in and
out of the house, which is nice. I have had a difficult time with the food
because it’s quite spicy and my stomach cannot take it. In addition, they
dishes are quite different from what I am used to. So, I have not been eating
much.
Ironically, the last two and a half days I have spent in bed
due to something I ate. I was taken to the hospital at the University of Cape
Coast last night by my sister and a family friend, Ali. After thinking that I
had contracted malaria, the blood test results said it was a stomach infection.
So, I got some medication, and today I am feeling a lot more like myself! I am
still having some issues with my stomach and the food, but I’m on the pathway
to recovery!
Maria! These are really great reflections! I love the anecdote about the goats--I've never experienced that before either! (Though it definitely sounds safer than packs of stray dogs.) I am also sorry to hear you got sick, but this has already happened to a lot of the Global Scholars in different places--so glad it was not malaria and hopefully this will be your only bout with the evil stomach forces! Your house also sounds really interesting; I'd love to see a photo of that sometime! I know you're just getting settled in this week, but I am excited to hear about your internship project once that gets going. Cheers!
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